Safari Special: Shaken and stirred by the call of the wild

An unbelievably handsome bartender called Ndaba mixes me another vodka martini - shaken, not stirred, naturally, and I soak up the alcohol with some canapés set out on the highly polished ebony bar. Next to me, a trendy German gay couple in their early thirties called Jan and Lukas are necking Graham Beck Cap Classique sparkling wine and we talk animatedly about the state of nightlife in London. Welcome to cocktails at Chief's Camp in the Botswana bush and Africa safari-chic at its best.

Safaris are no longer the preserve of honeymooners and the retired. Today, you are more likely to rub shoulders with hip young professionals such as Jan and Lukas, who expect boutique-hotel style and standards in their accommodation, and exclusivity when it comes to spotting big game. What's the point of discovering a lion kill if, within seconds, hordes of common safari folk swarm around, diminishing the experience?

A new breed of safari camps has emerged to meet this demand, and Stanley's Camp and Chief's Camp in the Okavango Delta are leaders in the field.

After an overnight flight to Johannesburg and a connection to Gaborone, my trip really took off when I boarded the small Air Botswana turbo-prop plane bound for Maun on board which the excited talk was of heading to the delta. As we came in to land at this remote town in north-western Botswana, I met the Africa of round mud huts and blistering heat that I'd dreamt of as a child. One further, short, low-level flight in a four-seater plane across the delta, and Alles, my tracker at Stanley's, was waiting on the dusty airstrip to take me on my first game drive. Just 24 hours after locking my front door in London, I was driving across the grassy floodplains, happily spotting leopard, zebra, lion, elephant, wildebeest and giraffe. Later, the setting sun stained the sky a vivid orange and pink as palm, acacia and marula trees were silhouetted against the setting sun. Alles made me a gin and tonic, served a tray of snacks, and, as the light finally faded, we made our way to camp.

Stanley's consists of eight safari tents on raised platforms, strung out through a line of woodland with extensive views over the surrounding plains. Simplicity is the key. Yes, they have comfortable beds with fine linens, antique furniture, oriental rugs and flushing loos, but there are no doors or windows, just zip-up flaps that can be left open to bring you closer to the bush.

An electric storm raced dramatically along the horizon and great bolts of lightening flashed in the distance and I was lulled to sleep by the gentle rumble of thunder in the distance.

The next morning the sounds of the bush were my wake-up call. I discovered I'd slept through lion and hyena passing through camp, one of the reasons why, after dark, you have to be accompanied to your tent by an armed member of staff. Just in case you feel in danger during the night, guests are also given a two-way radio for reassurance in case of any unexpected nocturnal visitors.

The open-sided main building has a tented roof supported by an enormous sausage tree. A raised walkway through the trees leads to a small swimming pool and lounge deck overlooking the grassy plain. Between May and November, when the delta is in flood, these plains turn into vast lakes covered with waterlilies. This is the busiest season, as the game is driven on to small patches of higher ground. But travel during the dry months has the advantage of fewer visitors.

After a sunset picnic under a baobab tree, we went on a night drive, spotting the sparkling eyes of young hyena.

Even at the height of the dry season, Stanley's is close to the water, and a mokoro canoe excursion is a must. Mekoro - originally hewn by axe from a single ebony tree - have been used for centuries. Poled by Alles, I glided silently through the reeds and rushes, the quiet broken only by the splash of the pole, the crackle of the reeds and the flocks of birds heading skywards. A solitary hippo guarded the entrance to the Boro River. We skirted past, narrowly avoiding the crocodiles sunning themselves on the nearest bank.

On my last morning at Stanley's, I walked with Jabu, Timbi and Morula, elephants rescued from culls in South Africa. They performed tricks on command, such as stealing a keeper's hat. After about three dusty kilometres, we reached a shady clearing where we lunched under an acacia tree and the elephants munched on the leaves above us.

The next destination was Chief's Camp, slightly larger than Stanley's with 12 guest pavilions and a more substantial main lodge with a larger pool and sun deck, from which you can view game.

As the engines revved up and we prepared to leave Stanley's Camp behind, a herd of zebra wandered on to the runway. It was the perfect send off from a luxurious but unrivalled journey into the African wilderness.

Give me the facts

How to get there

Ian McCurrach travelled as a guest of Abercrombie & Kent (0845-0700 611; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk), which offers three nights each at Stanley's Camp and Chief's Camp, fully-inclusive, from £2,399 per person, based on two sharing. The price includes return flights to Johannesburg and Gaborone, internal light aircraft flight transfers, meals and all game activities .

Further information

Botswana Tourism (01344 298982; www.botswana tourism.org.uk).

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