You think it's easy to find Las Vegas? Don't bet on it
Saturday, 26 April 2003
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Thinking of visiting Las Vegas? Looking forward to walking the Strip with its glitzy casinos and towering theme-hotels? Tempted by the thought of watching top cabaret acts, dancing girls, or the world's most famous magicians and entertainers? Whatever attracts you, here's an important tip: make sure you go to the right Las Vegas.
Thinking of visiting Las Vegas? Looking forward to walking the Strip with its glitzy casinos and towering theme-hotels? Tempted by the thought of watching top cabaret acts, dancing girls, or the world's most famous magicians and entertainers? Whatever attracts you, here's an important tip: make sure you go to the right Las Vegas.
Though some 30 million visitors a year don't have a problem finding Las Vegas, Nevada (population 425,000), a high number of visitors turn up by mistake at the town of Las Vegas, New Mexico (population 16,000). The New Mexican namesake lies 60 miles from Santa Fe, and 120 miles north-east of Albuquerque in a fertile valley on the banks of the Gallinas river. Originally known as Nuestra Senora de los Dolores de Las Vegas Grandes (Our Lady of the Sorrows of the Big Meadows), this Las Vegas was established in 1835 when New Mexico was still part of old Mexico. It was in 1848 in Las Vegas' plaza that General Kearny proclaimed the US annexation of the state of New Mexico.
The town grew rapidly due to its location on the Santa Fe Trail, the major mercantile trade route that ran more than 800 miles between Missouri and Santa Fe: by 1900 Las Vegas had become the largest city in New Mexico. But it was hit hard by both a local agricultural depression in the 1920s and the Great Depression of the 1930s.
In some ways, the economic decline may have proved a blessing in disguise. "We're very lucky that so many beautiful 19th- and early 20th-century buildings are still standing," says Judy Finley, president of the town's Chamber of Commerce. "In the Seventies and Eighties there was rampant redevelopment throughout most of the country. In many urban centres entire city blocks were bulldozed and characterless new shopping malls built in their place. We have over 900 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places."
How frequently do people turn up here thinking this is the other Las Vegas, I wondered. "Quite often, unfortunately," she replied. "Just a few days ago a man came in and said that he'd been driving all round town for an hour looking for the Luxor Hotel." Las Vegas (Nevada)'s Luxor Hotel is a huge 30-storey glass pyramid. I hadn't seen any buildings here over four floors.
Let's suppose you did turn up here in error. How close to the "Las Vegas Experience" could you get?
Not very close. New Mexican state law doesn't allow gambling, though I heard a rumour that there is bingo on Monday evenings at the War Veterans' Club.
Any Elvis Wedding Chapels?
"No, I'm sorry," says Ms Finley.
Big boxing events?
Her eyes lit up. "We did have a boxing title fight! Jack Johnson beat Jim Flynn to become world heavyweight champion."
When was that?
"July 1912. But you can still see the house where Johnson trained – it's on North Gonzales Street."
Amy Francis, of the Vegas RV Park in Las Vegas, NM, looks resigned when I ask her about "misplaced" visitors.
"Two weeks ago a couple drove up and the woman came into the park office and booked a campsite. She asked if the Strip was in walking distance. She said she and her husband had just been hiking in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. I told her it was about 700 miles. It took a moment to sink in, then she stormed out of the door screaming, "I'm going to kill my husband. I TOLD him we wanted the one in Nevada. No, he said. Reno's in Nevada, New Mexico has Las Vegas. It'll take us another two days to get there."
Pity they didn't stay for a while. I enjoyed wandering the New Mexican town's quiet streets, pleased to find something of a rarity in the States: a friendly, laid-back town overflowing with character and a sense of history. If you're touring New Mexico stop by and have a look at the "other" Las Vegas: if gambling were allowed, I'd bet you'd enjoy it.
