Independent Families: 'We want Florida's wild side'

Q. We are planning a trip to Florida this winter to visit family. We will be staying with relatives for Christmas but would like to add on a few days either side to explore. We're not keen on staying at a big hotel complex, however, and have already taken our children (aged nine and 13) to most of the big theme parks. Is there an alternative Florida for us to explore? We'll be based near Sarasota.

S Hewlett, via e-mail

A. Every year more than 70 million of Florida's visitors make straight for the theme parks, often without considering what else the Sunshine State has to offer. Yet Florida is home to over 4,000 miles of nature trails, 7,800 lakes, and 1,700 rivers and creeks. Although Christmas is one of the busiest periods, once you get off the tourist track the crowds soon disperse. The state's diverse natural beauty should be the basis for your imminent trip; you'll find that away from the tourist hotspots the slower pace will provide a relaxed but memorable holiday.

About two and-a-half-hours' (120 miles) drive south-west from Sarasota is the sprawling, serene Everglades National Park, at the southern end of the mainland. This rugged wilderness, on the mend from last year's Hurricane Katrina, will allow you to experience Florida's natural landscape without a Mickey Mouse or Donald Duck in sight. The range of real animals there will, however, astonish: as the US's only sub-tropical reserve, it encompasses marshes, mangroves, swamps, grass flats and islands that are home to a dazzling array of wildlife.

Fearful though the 1,000-odd crocodiles and alligators and 26 species of snake may be, the Everglades is also home to bottlenose dolphins, flamingos, tortoises, wetlands birds and tropical plants. To get closer to these you can kayak around the 10,000 islands of the Wilderness Waterway. No paddling skills are necessary, which makes the water trails appropriate for young and novice kayakers and canoeists. You can also arrange a peaceful eight- to 10-day guided trip down the 99-mile waterway with Everglades International Hostel (001 305 248 1122; www.evergladeshostel.com) for around $200 (£111) per sweat-beaded head. Alternatively - for something your nine-year-old should find more manageable - you could plan your own trip using the tide and nautical charts available from the Gulf Coast Visitor Center (001 239 695 3311). From this centre, you can also collect a free camping permit to stay on the islands. Kayaks, canoes, transfers, and even sleeping bags can be hired from Everglades Rentals & Eco Adventures (001 239 695 3299; www.evergladesadventures.com).

For a less energetic tour of the Everglades, you could take a small, motor-powered airboat deep into the mangrove creeks with the family-owned Everglade Airboat Tour Company (001 239 695 2333; www.airboateverglades.com). Or for a more informative look at the local wildlife hop on the Safari Wagon (001 239 262 1914; www.everglades-excursions.com) and let the experienced guides answer your questions on a full- or half-day wildlife safari. You might also want to learn about the history of the Florida Seminoles Indians and visit an authentic, re-created encampment (001 800 683 7800; www.seminoletribe.com). Here you can also see and learn about the native flora and fauna, and marvel at the wildlife, from deer and antelope to bison and wild tusked boar. However, the Everglades encompasses such a large and diverse area that should you decide to visit, first take a look at the park's website (www.nps.gov/ever), which provides details for each of the eight visitor centres, as well as information on campsites, trails and activities.

If you desire a more beach-based trip, hop across the water to the six-mile-long finger of land known as Captiva Island, just off the coast of Fort Myers. With its sparse population and dense foliage, this secluded island is an equally attractive hideaway from Florida's more commercial attractions. Here you can laze on the beach and enjoy the widely acclaimed sunsets without gaggles of tour groups snapping away behind you. A particularly good way of doing this would be to take a sunset tour with Captiva Cruises (001 239 472 5300; www.captivacruises.com) for $20 (£11.10) and $12.50 (£6.90) for children. The company also arranges dolphin-watching tours and shelling cruises (the island is renowned for its mounds of colourful shells) for a similar price. Canoeing and kayaking can also be pursued at the Tween Waters Marina (001 800 223 5865; www.tween-waters.com) costing $20 (£11.10) for two hours.

The soft, sandy beaches and shelling opportunities make Captiva particularly child-friendly and the island's accommodation gets booked up quickly during peak season. One option is to rent a cottage overlooking the mangroves and bay of Pine Island Sound at the South Seas Resort (001 877 205 1293; www.southseas.com). Rental costs $397 (£221) a night in the week after Christmas for a room sleeping the four of you with a fully equipped kitchen. The 330-acre resort sprawls horizontally rather than skywards so it doesn't feel like a hotel complex, but will gain you access to a range of activities including shuffle boarding, fishing, para-sailing, water skiing, tennis and golf.

A less conventional option would be to stay on one of Captiva's houseboats. Holiday Cruise Houseboats (001 239 945 5459; www.holidaycruisehouseboats.com) has a range of vessels, from 37ft to 50ft in length and sleeping four to 10 guests. All are furnished with a kitchen and bathroom. A houseboat will also allow you to explore the bays and islets around Sanibel and Captiva; many offer a swimming platform. Prices start from $2,400 (£1,333) a week over the Christmas break for a 41ft boat with two cabins.

Nearby, Sanibel Island is larger and more commercial, so good for shopping. It also has a large selection of restaurants and bars. Although the island lacks much of Captiva's tranquillity it is home to the JN "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge (001 305 361 9788; www.ding-darling.org), a 100-acre site that is home to thousands of birds best spotted at low tide feeding on the exposed mudflats, including herons, pelicans and cormorants. Finally, Florida offers many more treats for travellers willing to stray off the tourist track from the historic north to the tropical Keys, many of which are listed on the Florida Tourism website: www.visitflorida.com.

Send your family travel queries to The Independent Parent, Travel Desk, The Independent, 191 Marsh Wall, London E14 9RS or e-mail crusoe@independent.co.uk

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