The complete guide to: Jamaica

FEELING IRIE?

FEELING IRIE?

You should be feeling irie (good) if you're going to Jamaica. At around 100 miles long and 30 miles wide, it is one of the few Caribbean islands big enough to offer a real variety of scenery, from misty mountains and jungle to classic white-sand beaches, rolling pasture and even the bizarre, broccoli-like hills of Cockpit Country. It may be best-known to holidaymakers as the home of the all-inclusive resort but, sandwiched between Cuba and Honduras, with the Cayman Islands to the west and Haiti to the east, it has far more to offer than simply sun, sand and sea.

From the scruffy but lively capital, Kingston, in the south, Jamaica spreads out east across the Blue Mountains to the remote, lush districts of St Thomas and Portland. In the west are the big tourist resorts of Montego Bay and Negril, and, in the centre, industrious St Catherine, St Mary, St Ann (which includes the third in the Jamaican trinity of big resorts, Ocho Rios) and Clarendon. The south-west of the country, around the rural parishes of St Elizabeth and Manchester, is further off the tourist track, but there is a whole host of quirky places to stay (see below) and visit here.

The "one love" ethos that's bandied around may not always ring true, but with music serenading you on your way, the colourful Rasta culture, delicious plates of jerk meat and ackee and saltfish to tuck into and rum punch to wash it down with, Jamaica is one of the most exciting destinations in the Caribbean.

WHERE SHOULD I START?

With some history. The first people to live on Jamaica were the Taino Indians, who paddled their way across from what's now Venezuela around 1,100 years ago. Most of what you'll see on the island today, however, is colonial or post-colonial since almost all traces of the Tainos (including the people themselves) were wiped out by Jamaica's Spanish conquerors within 150 years of arriving on the island (Christopher Columbus was the first European to step ashore, in 1494).

The Spanish initially settled in St Ann's Bay on the north coast but soon established a capital at Spanish Town in the south. This remained the capital until the late 19th century when it shifted to Kingston, although in the middle of the 17th century Jamaica was wrested from the Spanish by the British; the "Maroons" who today live under semi-autonomous rule in parts of eastern Jamaica are descended from the African slaves the Spanish freed on their way off the island.

The British quickly developed Port Royal, outside Kingston, into a military base, cleverly persuading the infamous local buccaneers to defend the harbour in return for letting them use it as a base (in a bizarre twist, the most famous of these, Henry Morgan, was eventually made Lieutenant Governor of the island).

But perhaps the biggest impact that British colonists had in Jamaica was by establishing massive sugar estates and, later, banana plantations. Not only did this affect Jamaica's economy and strategic power, but, until slavery was abolished in 1834, these were run on slave labour. Although immigration would later bring significant numbers of Chinese, Indians and Germans to the island, it was the African slaves who made up the majority of Jamaican society. Gradually the call for independence grew louder and, in 1962, the island finally achieved it.

WHAT CAN I SEE?

There are a lot of architecturally important buildings in Jamaica but preservation doesn't seem to be a priority, so if you're interested in history go now before they crumble altogether.

If you're flying in to Kingston, start near the airport, in Port Royal. One of the world's biggest ports in 17th century, this was Henry Morgan's favourite haunt and was commonly dubbed "the wickedest city in the world". Earthquakes and lack of funds have reduced it to a scruffy fishing village these days but there's still plenty to see if you seek it out, from what's left of Fort Charles and the grandiose old naval hospital to balconied old buildings and an interesting church. Entrance to the fort costs J$100 (£1) for adults or J$50 (50p) for children and includes a guided tour (00 1 876 967 8438, www.jnht.com).

Kingston itself is not really worth a detour, unless you want to peer at the statues of political rivals - and national heroes in the run-up to independence - Norman Manley and Alexander Bustamante. But nearby Spanish Town boasts one of the country's most impressive sights, a magnificent Georgian square. Some of the buildings here have been restored but others are rapidly decaying and one is completely burnt out. It's still worth a stroll though, as is the cathedral on nearby White Church Street, the oldest Anglican church outside the UK (open daily 9am-5pm, entrance free). Sadly the imposing iron bridge on the outskirts of town has been left to rot, surrounded by piles of rubbish.

WHAT ABOUT PLANTATION HOUSES?

Rose Hall, about an hour east of Montego Bay is the great house of a former plantation, and was the only historic building I saw in Jamaica run as a really world-class attraction, with an immaculate interior, nicely kept grounds and a bit of local folklore (albeit the naff tale of the "white witch of Rose Hall") to pull in the punters. Sadly, it's all fake, reconstructed from the building's original 18th-century plans when some wealthy Americans bought the ruins for development in the 1960s. The hall is open from 9am-6pm daily and costs US$15 (£9) for adults and US$10 (£6) for children (00 1 809 953 2341, www.rosehall.com).

A more authentic experience is on offer at Greenwood Great House, five miles west. This was built in the 18th century, and was originally the home of Richard Barrett, cousin of Elizabeth Barrett Browning. The family library is still there, along with original paintings, furniture, china and rare musical instruments. It's open from 9am-6pm daily and costs US$12 (£7) for adults, or US$6 (£3.50) for children (00 1 876 953 1077).

For the time being, give Seville Great House, outside St Ann's, a miss. This is hyped as an attraction that combines Taino, African and European cultures but it's not worth the detour, with only a few shabby displays, dusty rooms and some badly overgrown grounds (open 9am-4pm daily; entrance US$4/£2.50).

AND THE SUN, SAND AND SEA?

Most people fly to Jamaica for a beach holiday and there's no shortage of coastline to explore, whether you prefer yours with white sand and lively beach bars, like those in the north, or the more remote, rocky and often black sand beaches you get in the south (see box for top beaches). But there's more to enjoying the water than paddling in the sea.

Gently rafting downstream is one of the most pleasant pastimes in Jamaica. There are two main destinations for this. At the more remote Rio Grande outside Port Antonio you take three hours following in Errol Flynn's footsteps by floating downstream on a bamboo raft, stopping every so often to swim. Trips can be organised through Rio Grande Tours (open 9am-5pm daily; 00 1 876 993 5778). A two-person raft costs US$52 (£30). On the Martha Brae, outside Montego Bay, trips are 75 minutes long, cost US$45 (£26) per person and are available between 9am and 5pm (00 1 876 940 6398, www.jamaicarafting.com).

Waterfalls are another draw on the north coast. The most famous are the huge but tourist-soaked Dunn's River Falls outside Ocho Rios, where you queue to paddle your way upstream in a human chain. It's open from 8.30am-4pm and entrance costs US$10 (£6) for adults and US$8 (£5) for children (00 1 876 974 2857, www.dunnsriverja.com).

For a more sedate trip set off on a "safari" boat from Black River and float downstream past mangroves, waterfalls and, if you're lucky, some of Jamaica's few remaining crocodiles. Trips take around 75 minutes, leave at 9am, 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm and 3.30pm and cost J$900 (£9) per adult and J$450 (£4.50) for children (1 Crane Road, 00 1 876 965 2513).

CAN I EXPLORE ON FOOT?

Yes. The Blue Mountains are ideal hiking territory, with a relatively cool climate and stunning scenery. The most famous trail is the Blue Mountain Peak Tour, setting out at night and hiking up to 7,402ft, the highest point on the island, in time for sunrise. You can do this yourself but it is safer to go as part of a group. Sunventure Tours runs trips including transport, accommodation, food and guides from US$80 (£48) per person (00 1 876 960 6685, www.sunventuretours.com). Other good hiking opportunities include the marked paths in Holywell National Recreation Park. You can also stay here, pitching a tent for J$100 (£1) per person or renting a cabin for J$2500 (£25) per night (00 1 876 920 8278, www.greenjamaica.org).

To explore further off the beaten track, contact Valley Hikes for information about walks in the Rio Grande Valley (00 1 876 993 3881). Or, if you want to spend a day freewheeling, you can do a day trip with Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours (00 1 876 974 7075, www.bmtoursja.com). These cost from US$80 (£48) per adult and from US$65 (£40) per child.

I WANT TO GET CLOSER TO NATURE

Head out to one of Jamaica's botanical gardens. The most spectacular is Cinchona, built to supply quinine in the 1900s, restored in the 1980s and now becoming overgrown again because of a lack of funding. It is almost on a level with Blue Mountain peak so, on a clear day, you'll not only get utter peace and quiet but also one of the best views on the island. The downside is that the roads to it are in such a bad state you won't even get there with an ordinary 4WD and there are no facilities. The best way to visit is to book a personal tour with the man who restored the gardens in the 1980s, Andreas Oberli, but the use of his services - and Land Cruiser - don't come cheap; you'll have to haggle him down from US$100 (£60) per hour (00 1 876 927 1371, e-mail: naf-hope@cwjamaica.com). Easier gardens to visit are Castelton in St Mary (open 9am-5pm; entrance free) and Hope in Kingston (the same).

WHAT ABOUT SOME CULTURE?

Make your way to Firefly, a couple of miles outside Port Maria on the north coast. This is the house Noël Coward lived in from 1955 until his death in 1973, and it is an interesting place to while away an afternoon, nosying through his bookshelves, admiring the pianos or, most of all, just looking out to sea from his stunning hilltop perch. There's a replica place-setting from the day the Queen Mother came to lunch in 1965. Firefly is open from 9am-5pm daily except Fridays and Sundays and costs US$10 (£6) for adults, free for under 12s (00 1 876 725 0920).

AND MUSIC?

You can't go to Jamaica without indulging in a bit of Marley mania. The island may currently be better known as the home of chart-topping dancehall artists Wayne Wonder and Sean Paul, but the man who first put Jamaican music on the map is celebrated throughout Jamaica. The village where he was born, Nine Miles, is now the site of his mausoleum but it involves quite an effort to get there and the end result is a bit underwhelming (00 1 876 995 1763, www.bobmarleymovement.com). Likewise, at the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston (housed in his former home at 56 Hope Road), almost the only glimpse you really get of the man behind the music is a peek at his favourite juicer, proudly displayed in what was brother Bob's tiny kitchen. The rest of the house has been completely transformed to accommodate platinum discs, concert memorabilia and newspaper cuttings. Tours run roughly hourly from 9.30am-4pm Monday to Saturday and cost US$10 (£6) for adults and US$5 (£3) for children (00 1 876 927 9152, e-mail: marleyfoundation@cwjamaica.com).

A better attraction for non-reggae obsessives (despite the name) is Reggae Explosion in Chris Blackwell's latest project, the Island Village complex in Ocho Rios. A chronological exhibition of Jamaican music, it runs from ska through rock steady and reggae right up to dancehall, helped along by all-singing, all-dancing tour guides. It is open from 9am-5pm and entrance costs US$7 (£4) for adults and US$3.50 (£2) for children (00 1 876 675 8895, www.islandjamaica.com).

WHO IS THIS CHRIS BLACKWELL?

Anglo-Jamaican Chris Blackwell was the founder of Island Records, which put reggae, and hence Bob Marley, on the international map. The company is still going strong with PJ Harvey, Portishead, Lionel Ritchie, Supergrass and Daniel Bedingfield among the label's artists. But these days Blackwell has his finger in all kinds of money-spinning pies, the main one in Jamaica being hotels. It is hard to dislike what may seem at first like a monopoly because the man really has a knack for spotting the wow factor. In music he did it with Marley, and in Jamaica's hotels he's done it with: the cosy Blue Mountain hideaway of Strawberry Hill (00 1 876 944 8400) where doubles start at US$315 (£185); Ian Fleming's former hideaway, Goldeneye, which is now a Bond hero's dream hangout with maxi rather than minibars, a raft of jet-skis and all-inclusive villas that start at US$595 (£350) (00 1 876 975 3354); The Caves, in Negril, a funky honeymooner's paradise with candlelit dining areas, sunny patios and all-inclusive cottages starting from US$320 (£190) per night (00 1 876 957 0270); and with Jake's, on Treasure Beach, a more bohemian but equally glamorous version of the Caves, with doubles starting from US$105 (£60) per night (0800 028 3335). For all the above the website is www.islandoutpost.com.

I THOUGHT JAMAICA WAS ALL

ABOUT ALL-INCLUSIVES?

Not at all. It might have been the birthplace of the concept but there are plenty of more individual places to stay. Round Hill, for example, a few miles outside Montego Bay, was the first really exclusive Jamaican resort, boasting privately owned villas that are managed by the hotel when the owners aren't there. The Kennedys had their honeymoon here and a mass of celebrities from Noël Coward to Mia Farrow have either spent the night or bought a villa. These days the clientele is a little more egalitarian but fun is still to be had guessing whose villa you're staying in. Double rooms from US$260 (£150), villas from US$370 (£220) per night, without breakfast (00 1 876 956 7050, www.roundhilljamaica.com).

Mocking Bird Hill, just outside Port Antonio, is one of Jamaica's quirkiest places to stay. Billed as an eco hotel, the only plastic that guests are allowed to bring is their credit cards, and people are encouraged to go bird-watching, hiking or painting in the lush surrounding countryside. The enthusiastic German-Jamaican owners can also arrange visits to local villages and craft workshops. Double rooms start at US$125 (£73), without breakfast (00 1 876 993 7267, www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com).

For total but easily accessible peace, try Jackie's On The Reef, a holistic guest house and spa on the cliffs above Negril. Rates also start from US$125 per night but per person, although it includes breakfast, dinner, yoga, meditation, walks, snorkelling, bird-watching and other activities (00 1 876 957 4997, www.visitnegril.com/jackies-on-the-reef). Neighbouring Tensing Pen is a little more conventional but fun with quirky wood, stone and thatch cottages from US$80 (£47) per night, room only (00 1 876 957 0387, www.tensingpen.com).

Another option is Folichon, a four-bedroomed villa in the south of the island. It was designed and built in the 1930s by a Russian émigré in Art Deco "dacha" style, can sleep up to eight and costs US$150 (£90) per night for the whole house. For more information or to book, call 00 1 876 965 0126 or visit www.treasurebeach.net.

Otherwise either check out www.insidersjamaica.com or, for self-catering, get in touch with the Jamaican Association of Villas and Apartments (01444 455993, www.villasinjamaica.com). Its prices start at £265 per week for a studio apartment sleeping two in Ocho Rios.

WHAT IF I WANT AN ALL-INCLUSIVE?

The obvious option is to head for the three main resorts - Ocho Rios, Negril or Montego Bay. Sandals (020-7581 9895, www.sandals.com) and SuperClubs (020-8339 4150, www.superclubs.com) are the main contenders here. If you're into toga parties and more, Superclubs also runs the scary but popular Hedonism brand, bookable in the UK through Funway Holidays (0870 22 00 626, www.funwayholidays.co.uk). Other operators include Virgin Holidays (0870 220 2788, www.virginholidays.co.uk), MyTravel (0870 238 7788, www.mytravel.com), Tropical Places (0870 160 5015, www.tropicalplaces.co.uk), Abercrombie and Kent (0845 0700610, www.abercrombiekent.co.uk), ITC Classics (01244 355300, www.itcclassics.co.uk), Elegant Resorts (01244 897 000, www.elegantresorts.co.uk) and Kuoni (01306 747002, www.kuoni.co.uk).

WHAT SHOULD I WAKE UP WITH?

The smell of coffee. Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee is often touted as the best in the world. If you want to see how the stuff is grown, book a visit to the excellent Old Tavern Estate in Green Hills, run by genial long-term expat Alex Twyman and his friendly Jamaican wife Dorothy. Tours are free but most people buy a bag or two of coffee to take home with them (00 1 876 924 2785, www.exportjamaica.org/oldtavern).

If this isn't potent enough for you, take a tour of the Appleton rum estate in the pretty Nassau Valley. For US$12 (£7) for adults and US$6 (£3.50) for children, you get a tour through the old distillery, freshly pressed sugarcane juice, a generous glass of rum punch and a rather hard-sell video presentation (00 1 876 963 9215, www.appletonrum.com).

WON'T THAT SEND ME BANANAS?

Then head out to one of the working plantations and see the real thing being grown. There are some massive plantations still operating in Jamaica but one of the best day-trips involves a visit to one of the smallest, Sun Valley. This family owned plantation just south of Oracabessa focuses on producing young coconut water for the local market, but they also grow bananas, june plums, ortaniques (a cross between a tangerine and an orange, and a Jamaican invention) and all manner of other fruits and spices. Lorna Binns, one of the owners, takes the tours, giving a friendly introduction to all kinds of weird and wonderful fruits before leading you back to the courtyard to try a plate of the national dish, saltfish and ackee. It's a tasty mix of fried salted cod, ackee (a vegetable), onions and peppers, and the locals eat it for breakfast. Tours usually run at 9am, 11am and 2pm and cost US$12 (£7) per adult and US$6 (£3.50) for children (00 1 876 771 2517).

HOW DO I GET THERE?

Most people travelling independently fly to Montego Bay or Kingston. I flew with Air Jamaica, which flies from London Heathrow and Manchester to Kingston and Montego Bay from around £570 return (020-8570 7999, www.airjamaica.com). British Airways flies from London Gatwick four times a week to Kingston from around £550 (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com). Cheaper charter flights are sometimes available from Manchester or London Gatwick to Montego Bay with Airtours. These are sold with one night's accommodation and leave on Sundays and Tuesdays. Current return fares start at around £300 (0870 191 3582, www.mytravel.com).

AND GET AROUND?

Not particularly easily. Buses are cheap but unreliable, crowded and slow. Renting a car is feasible but expensive (around US$75/£45 per day) and, with some bad roads and poor road signing, may be more effort than it's worth. If you only plan to go a short distance each day you're probably better off taking a taxi (bank on around £2 per km). Or, if you can afford it, charter a car and driver, though this will cost around US$150 (£90) per day; try Mr Clue (00 1 876 944 2888, e-mail: audreyclue@hotmail.com).

IS IT SAFE?

The consensus is yes. Crime is a problem in Jamaica but little of it is targeted specifically at tourists. Having said that, the Foreign Office advises travellers to be alert for thieves and not to walk in certain areas or use public transport at night (0870 606 0290, www.fco.gov.uk). Another thing to be aware of is that Jamaica has some very deep-seated homophobia, and some of the all-inclusive clubs will only accept mixed-sex couples.

WHERE CAN I GET MORE INFORMATION?

The Jamaican Tourist Board is at 1-2 Prince Consort Road, London (020-7224 0505, www.visitjamaica.com). For general background, try the new Rough Guide to Jamaica (£11.99).

Six of the best beaches

Lively or secluded - take your pick

SEVEN MILE BEACH

This sparkling white-sand beach in Negril is still pretty stunning if you ignore the row of hotels behind it - and the fact that erosion of the reef has meant it is only a fraction of the width it once was. Bear in mind that, with Negril's reputation for sex tourism (older white women with young black men), if you order a "sex on the beach" at the bar, you may get more than you expected.

FRENCHMAN'S COVE

Just east of Port Antonio, this beach belongs to the hotel of the same name so you have to pay J$200 (£2) to get in but it is worth it. A short, fat, sandy beach with a freshwater stream to dip into as well as the sea, it is prettily overhung with tropical foliage - and has waiter service.

BOSTON BAY

A few miles further east, this is a tiny, quiet beach. There is not a lot of sand these days thanks to the ravages of a recent hurricane but that is not the main reason to come here anyway - the jerk stalls are, selling peppery, smoke-grilled pork and cups of fresh young coconut milk.

LIME CAY

A small island off Port Royal. You can hire someone to take you out there by boat and spend a day quietly picnicking, swimming and soaking up the sun.

OCHO RIOS

There is a small but perfectly formed stretch of white sand beyond Island Village where you can lie in the sun, try your hand at watersports or cool off with an ice-cream from the adjacent shop. Entrance costs US$3 (£1.75) per person.

TREASURE BEACH

The south of the island is full of less developed beaches and this is one of the best, next to a small fishing village and with coves that are perfect for snorkelling.

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