Big Night Out: Havana
Boogie. Salsa. Cha-cha. This is not a one-party town
Sunday, 6 July 2003
The vibe
The vibe
Havanaball in Havana means music, music, and yes, more music. This splendid and sumptuous Caribbean city is laced with the vibrant and uplifting sounds of son (African-cum-Spanish), mambo, salsa, rumba and timba (a distinctive sort of salsa). Confused? Just sway, boogie, cha-cha-cha and enjoy the rhythm of life like the rest of this vibrant town. Every night is party night and weekends are especially wild. Nightlife kicks into action around 10pm. Keep your finger on the fast- beating pulse and check out the weekly listings magazine Cartelera, as venues and times can change overnight. You might even get to see some big names such as The Buena Vista Social Club. Tourists pay in US dollars. Remember, this is a cash-starved nation so always check prices and your change. If you stay in one district, getting about on foot is quite easy. Travelling further afield? Jump in a bicycle taxi for $1 (60p) a ride or cruise in a cocotaxi, a three-wheeled scooter-cum-cab, for about $5 (£3) an hour.
Liquid
Although it is firmly on the tourist track you have to neck a Mohito or more at La Bodeguita del Medio, Calle Empedrado 207. Sip that refreshing blend of rum, lime juice and mint out on the balcony and think of Hemingway, whose favourite hangout this was. If you are hell-bent on a homage to Hemingway, head next for El Floridita, Calle Obispo 557, and down a daiquiri. Bar Monserrate, Avenida de Belgica, is always packed and has a resident and guest bands. Feeling swanky? Hole up in the Vista del Golfo bar in the stunning Hotel Nacional, Calle O, a long time favourite of Fifties film stars and their gangster mates.
Refuelling
Tuck into some traditional, authentic Cuban food such as roast pork with rice and black beans. For Creole food, try El Aljibe, Avenida 7ta, between 24 and 26 (00 357 241583), a popular haunt of local bigwigs and well-heeled tourists. Around £16. Café de Oriente, Plaza de San Francisco (00 357 866686), resembles an old colonial house although it has a fresh young feel with good Cuban cooking. About £14. For a meal with a view dine at the Roof Garden, Hotel Sevilla, Calle Trocadero 55 (00 357 608560), which serves average French fare but the city overview is divine. Around £22. For an authentic Cuban experience try a Paladares, a privately owned restaurant in a Cuban home. Paladar Gringo Viejo, Calle 21 no 454 (00 357 326150), and Marpoly, Calle K 154 (00 357 322471), are two of the best.
Go native
Music, music and more music. Jazz is particularly popular here. Check out the Jazz Café, Galerias del Paseo, Habana Café at Hotel Melia Cohiba, Avenida Paseo between 1 and 3 and Casa de la Musica, Calle 20 no 3308.
Munchies
Twenty-four-hour snack bars abound in this city and there is an abundance of street stalls selling fresh and cheap eats, including pizza for 4 pesos (£2). Look out for places selling cajitas - complete takeaway meals in boxes for 20 pesos (£10).
Party
Cuban disco does not come much better than Disco Chang, Calle San Nicolas 517. Queue with the locals to get into this privately owned club in a first-floor flat. Western-style discovaters make for Club Ipanema, Hotel Copacabana, Avenida 1ra between 44 and 46. For salsa, saunter to Palacio de la Salsa in Hotel Riviera, Malecon. Hang out with Havana's élite and party the night away with a live salsa band.
Chill
There's no better way to take a break than soaking up the rays on the beaches of Santa Maria and El Megano. Or take a stroll through Old Havana and just marvel at the splendour of it all.
Havanatour (01707 646463; www.havanatour.co.uk) offers a seven-night short break at the Inglaterra Hotel from £688 per person, including return direct flights with Air Jamaica, transfers and b&b accommodation.
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