24 Hours In: Calcutta

Morning stretch

06.00: An early start is well rewarded with the spectacle of the morning ablutions and exercises at Armenian Ghat, under the gaze of the immense Howrah Bridge. Participants include wrestlers and devotees of the monkey god Hanuman.

Raj breakfast

08.00: Return for a full English breakfast at the Fairlawn Hotel (00 91 33 2252 1510; fairlawnhotel.com) at 13a Sudder Street, housed in a building that dates from 1783 and strikes a balance between Raj-era and more modern conveniences. Doubles from £28 per night.

Take a stroll

10.00: Stroll around BBD Square, where the legacy of the East India Company hangs in the air. Don't miss the old general post office and the Writers' Building.

Official business

12.00: Walk south from BBD Square to Raj Bhavan, also known as Government House, and the official home of the Governor of Bengal. Guests included Winston Churchill and Noël Coward.

Spicy lunch

13.00 More than 50 years old, the Indian Coffee House, at 15 Bankim Chatterjee Street, is a charismatic, if rather smoky, settings for a meal. Outstanding coffee, and meals include Afghan-style mutton. It's hard to spend more than £2.

Ancient history

14.00: The Indian Museum is the oldest in the country (built 1864) and the 60-plus galleries include excellent collections of archaeology, art, anthropology, and botany.

Victorian days

15.30: Take a detour into the Maidan to reach the Victoria Memorial. Exhibits inside the memorial include a piano that Queen Victoria played. In the nearby St Paul's cathedral you will find acclaimed stained glass by Sir Edward Burne-Jones.

Superior dining

19.00: For the classic Indian dining experience, go to Amber Bar and Restaurant (00 91 33 224 83018) at 11 Waterloo Street. The food continues to be highly rated with mughlai and tandoori dishes the speciality.

Sweet dreams

21.00: Take a stroll through the city's flagship development, Millennium Park. Enjoy a soft drink and set your teeth on edge with an assortment of sweets.

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