The Complete Guide To: The Indian Ocean

WHERE DOES IT START, AND STOP?

The Indian Ocean may be the junior partner of the planet's three big oceans, but it is still vast: nearly 10,000km wide at the southern tips of Africa and Australia - one-quarter of the earth's circumference. It is eight times the size of the US, and accounts for one-fifth of the Earth's water surface. It is separated from the Atlantic by the 20-degree east line of longitude (which lies east of Cape Town) and from the Pacific by the 147-degree east line (just east of Melbourne). The northernmost extent of the Indian Ocean is around latitude 30 north in the Persian Gulf, just north of Kuwait.

Within these bounds, it embraces the Andaman, Arabian and Red Seas, the Gulf of Oman, the Persian Gulf, the Bay of Bengal, the Strait of Malacca, the Great Australian Bight and the Mozambique Channel. It has 66,000km of coastline - and a wealth of superb island locations.

A SCENE OF TRAGEDY?

On 26 December 2004, communities around the ocean were torn apart when one of the largest earthquakes ever hit occurred off the west coast of Sumatra. The multiple tsunamis created by the earthquake ravaged coastal areas over much of the Indian Ocean, as far away as Somalia, 4,100km west of the epicentre. The worst-hit areas were southern Sri Lanka, the Maldives, Thailand's west coast (particularly Phuket and Phi Phi and mainland resort towns), the Indian state of Tamil Nadu and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands.

The greatest devastation was wrought upon the north of the Indonesian island of Sumatra in Aceh, close to the epicentre. Yet in most of these areas, visitors are already being welcomed back.

SO IS IT BACK TO NORMAL NOW?

No. This was, after all, a tragedy that claimed more than 250,000 lives and destroyed the homes of a million people. Yet life goes on and tourism can give the regions a much-needed economic boost.

Only 48 of Sri Lanka's 248 star-rated hotels were damaged by the tsunami. Of those that were hit, all but a handful have been totally refurbished, and are now fully operational. In the Maldives, around one-sixth of the 90 or so resorts are yet to re-open. Existing plans have continued, however; Anantara Resort and Spa (00 66 8252 0250; www.anantara.com), a five-star hideaway with 110 villas, is due to open on the South Male Atoll in March. In Khao Lak, Thailand, around 15 hotels with 1,200 rooms are now open, with another 3,000 rooms expected to be ready next year. Close by, the Central Krabi Bay Resort (00 66 7563 8226; www.centralhotelresorts.com) - a low-rise, 192-room hotel on a private bay - opens next month. The Thai government has selected a site in Khao Lak to build a Tsunami Memorial (www.tsunamimemorial.or.th) to remember those who lost their lives.

ARE ALL THE SIGNS POSITIVE?

Mostly. Issues have been voiced by organisations such as Tourism Concern, who feel that some luxury resorts are taking precedence to sustainable tourism that benefits locals and their environment. For example, there is talk that laws blocking tourism development in regions such as the Andaman and Nicobar Islands will be changed to stimulate the economy. Thailand is also seeing land disputes as developers seek to appropriate "protected" land for tourism projects.

Nias Island, close to the epicentre off the coast of Sumatra, suffered another earthquake at the end of March, but this long-established surfer destination has shown its fighting spirit and - with the exception of a few collapsed buildings - there are few obvious signs of the devastation.

The Foreign Office (www.fco.gov.uk) advises against all travel to Indonesia's Aceh province. There are reports of inter-relief agency squabbles over who gets and controls relief funds. It could be said that these are indications that things are back to normal. In short, most of the locations hit by the tragedy are once again open for business. Yet despite glowing reports from recent travellers, tourists numbers have been slow to recover to anything like pre-tsunami levels.

TIME TO DIP A TOE IN THE WATER

In terms of island nations, the obvious target is Sri Lanka. This wonderful country contains so many riches unscathed by the tsunami, yet it seems to have been significantly slower to bounce back than other destinations. Shaped like a teardrop trickling from the chin of India, the island is a bundle of contradictions. Everything you could want from a grand tour is here in abundance: glorious beaches; exhilarating highlands; ancient history and colonial excess; stunning scenery and effervescent cityscapes; plus culinary, musical and artistic treats reflecting the rich mix of Sinhalese and Tamil cultures. New developments are continuing: Saffrons Beach Villa (www.saffronsbeachvilla.com), a four-suite luxury property at Habaradua, is due to open on 1 December. If you're on the island on 24 January, the International Elephant Polo Tournament - played against a backdrop of the ramparts of the Galle Fort - should be worth a visit.

I'M LOOKING FOR A TROPICAL PARADISE

Then you are spoiled for choice. Phuket and Ko Phi Phi have recovered from the tsunami at an amazing pace, and are keen to welcome back visitors. A paradise island must boast glitteringly clear water that washes brilliant white sandy beaches. The backdrop should comprise handsome hillsides, clad in vegetation. Koh Phi Phi ticks all the right boxes, and has the added advantage of some excellent places to eat, drink and sleep. Phuket, meanwhile, is a large, spur-shaped island, which dangles from the heel of Thailand into the Andaman Sea. It has regulation white-sand beaches, options for scuba diving and snorkelling, and also opportunities for hiking in the hills.

Of Malaysia's islands, Langkawi and Penang are the two top candidates - not least because you can fly to them non-stop from Heathrow on Malaysia Airlines (0870 607 9090; www.malaysia-airlines.com). For colonial heritage and beautiful scenery, choose Penang; for indolence and indulgence, Langkawi.

The conventional honeymoon destinations, the Seychelles and Mauritius, are (relatively) close but very different. The former are spread across 100 islands. Tourists tend to fly into Mahe, and head onward to the moderately developed - and very beautiful - island of Praslin.

Mauritius is a much larger single island, with rich French, Indian and African heritage. Luxury resorts are clustered around the west, north and east coasts; the south coast is more rugged. The capital, Port Louis, is located on the shore in the north-west, diametrically opposite the island's airport. The interior of Mauritius is full of surprises - such as Eureka, an 1836 plantation house that calls itself "La maison Créole" (00 230 433 8477; www.maisoneureka.com). The house is a recreation of 19th-century life for the wealthy Franco-Mauritian upper classes. It opens 9am-5pm daily except Sunday, admission 200 rupees (£4).

ANY AFRICAN ISLANDS?

On the far side of the ocean is Madagascar, the world's fourth-largest island; there are some fine beaches here but the main reason most people come is to enjoy the flora, fauna and cultural mix.

Also on the African shores, Tanzania has Zanzibar and Pemba; Kenya has Lamu. Both Zanzibar and Lamu have old towns steeped in atmosphere and history. There are strong Arabian influences because the first international traders on the East African coast are thought to have been Arabs who sailed down from the Persian Gulf. By the 12th century, Lamu and Zanzibar (plus Mombasa and Malindi in mainland Kenya) were towns with predom- inantly Arab populations. In 1840, the Sultan of Oman even transferred his capital from Muscat to Zanzibar. It's a fascinating Indian Ocean experience to compare Muscat's waterfront Mutrah area - with its lively markets and wonderful architecture - with Lamu and Zanzibar's Stone Town.

ISN'T OMAN DIFFICULT?

Oman has recently opened up to UK visitors, scrapping its tricky visa rules and welcoming you in with a minimum of formalities. The largest of the Gulf states has an intriguing coastline, mountainous desert scenery, huge sand dunes, date palm oases, atmospheric ruined mud villages and huge mud forts, many of them renovated. This is an ideal destination for hikers and 4WD adventurers.

The coastal resorts are breathtaking. Shangri-La's Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa (00 968 24 776 666; www.shangri-la.com), comprising three hotels - with nearly 700 rooms between them - is set in landscaped gardens between rugged mountains and the sea. It is due to open in January.

Even on a short visit, you should try to get out to the mountains or deserts; preferably both. Take a trip through the gap in the Hajar mountains to the town of Nazwa - venue for one of Oman's largest forts, and a big, new (and pleasingly sensitive) souq. This makes a good base for further exploration; stay at the comfortable Falaj Daris Hotel, a former police guest house, where you can be sure of both a beer and a swim.

Several local companies in Oman offer tours that can last from a couple of hours to a fortnight. One such is Heide Beal Tours (00 968 7952 0624; www.heide-beal-tours.com), based in Muscat but able to create individual tours. Rates start at 160 rials (£250) for a day trip for up to four people, including transportation in a Land Cruiser and driver/guide.

I WANT TO SLEEP BY THE SHORE UNDER AFRICAN SKIES

Starting in the south-west, Mozambique has more than 2,500km of Indian Ocean coastline. The capital, Maputo, can be reached on TAP Air Portugal (via Lisbon); Johannesburg in neighbouring South Africa is also a popular hub.

A favourite spot to head for is the Bazaruto Archipelago, a string of islands surrounded by what is said to be the world's largest fringing reef (a coral reef built out from the shore of the island). In addition to marine life, crocodiles and flamingos can often be seen in and around the shallow lakes and pools on the islands.

The latest area to open to tourism is the stunning Quirimbas Archipelago offshore to the north of the country. Vamizi Island (00 258 272 21299; www.maluane.com) is a stunning, intimate new lodge on an island with an 8km stretch of white beach in the pristine archipelago.

The nation used to be associated with drought, famine, civil war and floods. But rebuilding the country - whose splendours including idyllic beaches, tropical islands, pristine reefs, crumbling forts and delicious seafood - is well under way.

If Mozambique looks a little too rudimentary for you, then consider the coastlines of South Africa, Tanzania or Kenya - or aim across the ocean to Australia.

WHERE SHOULD I MAKE LANDFALL IN AUSTRALIA?

Head for Broome in the north of Western Australia. This tropical, old pearling town is the gateway to beautiful Cable Beach. Western Australia has countless other superb beaches: just offshore between those in the Cape Range National Park (00 61 8 9949 1676; www.calm.wa.gov.au/national_ parks) and the town of Coral Bay to the south is the Ningaloo Reef, thought by many to be more spectacular than the Great Barrier Reef.

Around 11 hours' drive further south, Perth has a number of excellent beaches. Visit the city between 10 February and 5 March next year for the Perth International Arts Festival (00 61 8 6488 2000; www.perthfestival.com.au) the oldest international arts festival in Australia and Western Australia's premier cultural event.

WHO SHOULD I BOOK WITH?

A good operator for the western Indian Ocean is Rainbow Tours (020-7226 1004; www.rainbowtours.co.uk), which offers a range of holidays to South Africa, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Mauritius, Réunion, the Seychelles and Madagascar. Specialists in nature tourism offering Madagascan (and other Indian Ocean) itineraries include Naturetrek (01962 733051; www.naturetrek.co.uk) and Wildlife Worldwide (0845 130 6982; www.wildlifeworldwide.com). Arabian Odyssey (01242 224482; www.odysseyexperience.co.uk) is a good choice for Oman; it also goes to Sri Lanka, the Maldives, Mauritius and Zanzibar. Kuoni (01306 747731; www.kuoni.co.uk) is strong for India, Sri Lanka and the Maldives. For Thailand, Malaysia and Western Australia, try Travelmood (08700 664 556; www.travelmood.com).

TO ENJOY LIFE ON THE OCEAN WAVE?

Trailfinders (020-7938 3939; www.trailfinders.com) offers cruises as part of tailor-made holidays throughout the region. It is also an agent for Silversea, a cruise company that operates a number of Indian Ocean itineraries such as a one-week cruise combining the Seychelles and Madagascar and a 14-day cruise from Mombasa to Dubai. Another line, North Star Cruises, offers a 10-day Perth to Exmouth trip and a six-day "Coral Atoll" circle cruise from Broome.

To explore beneath the Ocean's surface, Dive Worldwide (0845 130 6980; www.diveworldwide.com) offers tailor-made scuba diving holidays throughout the region.

WHERE CAN I GET MORE INFORMATION?

No single guide book covers the entire region, but it shouldn't be hard to find information on one of the areas you want to focus on. Worth mentioning - because they are brand new - are Sri Lanka and The Maldives, both published by Bradt Guides and written by Royston Ellis. In addition, the leading nations have the following tourist office contact details:

Australia: brochure line 0906 863 3235 (60p per minute) or visit www.australia.com.

India: 020-7437 3677; www.incredibleindia.org

Indonesia: www.tourismindonesia.com

Malaysia: 020-7930 7932; www.malaysiatrulyasia.co.uk

The Maldives: 00 960 3323 228; www.visitmaldives.com

Mauritius: 020-7584 3666; www.mauritius.net

Mozambique: 00 2258 1 307 3203; www.futur.org.mz

Oman: 020-8877 4524; www.omantourism.gov.om

Thailand: 0870 900 2007; www.thaismile.co.uk

South Africa: 0870 155 0044; www.southafrica.net

Sri Lanka: 020-7930 2627; www.srilankatourism.org

Tanzania: www.tanzania-web.com

Kenya: brochure line 020-7202 6373, or visit www.magicalkenya.com.

TEN INDIAN OCEAN RESORTS TO WOW YOU

In South Africa, the Thonga Beach Lodge (00 27 35 474 7100; www.isibindiafrica.co.za) has 12 spacious, luxurious rooms facing the beach. This idyllic property is set in the coastal dunes of Mabibi, backed by Lake Sibayi, southern Africa's largest freshwater lake.

Matemwe Bungalows (00 255 27 250 2799; www.asilialodges.com) is relaxed Zanzibar at its very best. This newly refurbished hotel on the north-east coast has a gorgeous new pool.

In Mauritius, The Heritage Golf & Spa Resort (00 230 601 1500; www.veranda-resorts.com) is a true all-inclusive - even champagne, room service and daily spa treatments are included. There are gourmet restaurants, one supervised by Laurent Pourcel (who has been awarded three Michelin stars) and more watersports and activities than you could ever wish for - all based on the unspoilt south coast.

North Island (00 248 293 100; www.north-island.com) in the Seychelles (pictured, right) is perhaps the ultimate eco-lodge, and has been named "Best Hotel on Earth" by Harpers Abroad UK.

The Muscat area of Oman boasts a number of deluxe hotels, the best of which is probably The Chedi Muscat (00 968 24 52 44 01; www.ghmhotels.com): the Omani architecture is stylish; the service, cuisine and pools excellent.

In Sri Lanka, on a rocky knoll close to Galle, the Lighthouse Hotel & Spa (0800 032 4254; www.ghotw.com) has delightful rooms and a lovely seafront.

Reached by a short seaplane flight from the Maldives capital, Male, the One & Only Kanuhura (00 960 662 0044; www.oneandonlyresorts.com) consistently attracts superb reviews, particularly from honeymooners.

In Thailand, check in to The Sarojin, Kho Lak (00 66 76 427 900 for reservations; www.sarojin.com). A huge old ficus tree is the focus of this resort, which opened last month. There are 56 fabulous rooms set in extensive gardens, and there is a lovely private beach.

The award winning Datai (00 604 959 2500; www.thedatai.com) is in a great location on the Malaysian island of Langkawi. It has water-based activities, and there's an 18-hole golf course.

Near Broome, in Western Australia, the Coco Eco Nature Retreat (00 61 8 9192 3103; www.cocoeco.com.au) isn't your run-of-the-mill B&B. Guest accommodation consists of open-design treetop rooms, all with superb views of turquoise Cable Beach.

A TRADE ROUTE TO THE EAST

Centuries before Vasco da Gama, "Europeans" sailed the ocean: the Egyptians are thought to have sailed to Somalia more than 4,000 years ago and a Greek text dating from 70AD describes the ports along the coasts of Africa and India.

In July 1497, da Gama sailed from Lisbon at the behest of Portugal's King John II to open the sea route to Asia and to outflank the Muslims, who enjoyed a monopoly of trade with India and other eastern states.

After rounding the Cape of Good Hope and landfalls in present-day South Africa, Mozambique and Kenya, he reached India in 1498. The Portuguese, then Dutch, French and finally British (from the early 19th century) dominated trade in the Ocean, though in such a big area the domination was far from total.

The opening of the Suez Canal - linking the Mediterranean with the Red Sea (and therefore the Indian Ocean) in 1869 had a huge impact on trade between Europe and the countries of the Ocean.

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