Independent Families: 'Where can we find a special apartment in central Rome?

Q. We are planning a trip to Rome for the week running up to Christmas. This is a special trip and we don't want to scrimp on accommodation, but hotels seem to be extravagantly expensive so we are now considering renting an apartment. Can you recommend companies or private apartments that would be suitable? There are four of us - two adults and two children aged nine and 12 and we'd like to be centrally located in a reasonably nice building. Our budget is around £750.

F Turner, via e-mail

A. Vibrant and suitably festive at this time of year, Rome is ideal for getting you geared up for Christmas. Nativity scenes, decorative lights, ice-rinks and markets selling seasonal culinary treats provide embellishment to Rome's historic splendour. An apartment seems to be the natural choice given hotel prices around Christmas, which are typically no less than £150 per night for a mid-range option. Also, you can not only rent an apartment reasonably, but there are plenty to choose from.

Rental in Rome (00 39 06 9932 0047; www.rentalinrome.com) has an excellent range of apartments starting from around €80 (£57) per night. Geranio, near the Vatican, sleeps four people and is suited to your needs. Near the spiritual home of Christmas, it is few minutes' walk from St Peter's Basilica, where you'll find a life-size nativity scene. Recently refurbished, the property has a living room with a sofa bed, a large kitchen, a large double bedroom, bathroom, balcony and wooden flooring throughout. The total cost for a five-night stay from 19-24 December is a reasonable €425 (£303).

The area also has plenty of supermarkets and markets. CONAD Clodio at Via Golametto 4A, opens 24 hours a day, but don't miss one of Rome's largest food markets, the Trionfale on Via Andrea Doria (open Monday-Saturday 7am-2pm), or the Piazza dell'Unita, a covered art deco market on Via Cola di Rienzo (Monday-Saturday 7am-8pm). Here, you'll be able to pick up inexpensive, fresh produce, from meat and pasta to exotic fruits. If you're not a culinary maestro, a good and popular neighbourhood trattoria is Osteria dell'Angelo at Via Giovanni Bettolo 24 (00 39 06 372 9470). The fixed price evening menu (€18/£13) offers traditional Roman fare and children are welcome. It is closed on Sundays.

South of the Vatican, Rome City Apartments (00 39 06 42 01 6891; www.romecityapartments.com) offers properties in - among other districts - fashionable Trastevere, also known as "er core de Roma", the heart of Rome. Apartment Eternity is in the heart of the quarter near the river Tiber and has a double bedroom and lounge with two sofa beds, as well as a fully equipped kitchen. The cost for four guests is €120 (£86) per night for the week before Christmas and the apartment is available until 23 December.

To get under the skin of cosmopolitan Trastevere, weave through the medieval streets to seek out its shops and cafés. Although you won't find the cultural sights of the right bank of the Tiber, you'll feel like more of a local and less of a tourist there. Immerse yourself in everyday life by visiting the San Cosimato food market on Piazza San Cosimato (mornings, Monday-Saturday) or the local supermarket, Standa at Viale di Trastevere 60 (Monday-Saturday 9am-8pm). A Trastevere institution is Valzani at Via del Moro 37b (00 39 065 803 792; www.valzani.it), a patisserie selling delectable treats and seasonal Italian pastries, including the Christmas favourite panetone.

If you enjoy flea markets, visit Rome's biggest, Porta Portese on Viale di Trastevere (Sundays 6am-2pm). The neighbourhood also boasts one of Rome's most famous pizzerias, the rough and ready Da Ivo on Via di San Francesco. However, since it takes no bookings you're likely to have to queue in the cold, so instead head for Dar Poeta at Vicolo del Bologna 45 (00 39 06 588 0516), where the pizzas and service are more reliable.

You can afford to splurge a little without spending a fortune on accommodation. Studio Fori (00 39 06 4544 1897; www.accomodationsrome.com), for example, rents more lavish properties in the city. Its two-bedroom apartment near the Spanish Steps on Piazzale Flamino boasts high ceilings, a bright interior and a mix of contemporary and antique furnishings. You'll be right by the Villa Borghese gardens and Piazza del Popolo and it's a short walk to the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and the huge Christmas market at Piazza Navona. The daily rental is €228 (£163), which doesn't include gas or electricity. Although this is just above your budget, you'll get more room and character for your money than you would in a hotel, with most of Rome's attractions on your doorstep.

Should you decide to stay in this tourist-centric but attraction-heavy area, take your shopping basket to the food market in Via Bocca di Leone. There are also plenty of restaurants. L'Enoteca Antica at Via della Croce 76b (00 39 06 679 0896) is a few minutes' walk from the apartment and primarily serves wine, but also has a concise menu of good pastas, pizzas and salads. Caffé Greco on the elegant Via Condotti is a good pit stop after a day's shopping for a restorative hot chocolate; you'll be following in the footsteps of Keats and Goethe.

For information about Christmas events in Rome, contact the Rome Tourist Board (00 39 06 488 991; www.romaturismo.com).

Send your family travel queries to The Independent Parent, Travel Desk, The Independent, 191 Marsh Wall, London E14 9RS or e-mail crusoe@independent.co.uk

Interesting? Click here to explore further