24-Hour Room Service: Knockinaam Lodge, Scotland
Saturday, 9 December 2006
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We were exploring the rock pools in the rain, clambering over slippery rocks, the tang of sea spray on our lips. Picking through bits of driftwood, we scavenged for shells wearing borrowed wellies, throwing sticks for the owners' dogs.
Earlier, snagged by brambles we'd scrabbled up the tangled path to the cliffs for a wind-whipped walk, buffeted by gusts of sleet. Straining through the veil of grey, we could just make out the shape of Ireland across a dark slate sea. So much for assertions about the warming effects of the Gulf Stream on this balmy corner of south-west Scotland.
With two bedraggled dogs we slouched back across the lawn sloping down to the little cove, to the crackling log fire awaiting us inside the grey-stone lodge.
Built in 1859, Knockinaam Lodge was so remote that Sir Winston Churchill and General Eisenhower chose to meet there during the Second World War to hammer out the D-Day plans. The lodge's other claim to fame is that it featured in John Buchanan's classic murder-mystery The 39 Steps.
Today, its dramatic location is only part of the appeal. Knockinaam is now renowned for its food and wood-panelled (slightly too much tartan) whisky bar, which stocks 120 warming and reviving malts.
LOCATION
Knockinaam Lodge, Portpatrick, Dumfries and Gallowa, Scotland (01776 810 471; www.knockinaamlodge.com). At the end of a single-track lane, which winds down to 30 acres of gardens and woodland surrounded by gorse-clad cliffs. The little fishing village of Portpatrick is five miles away, the port of Stranraer, where you can catch a ferry to Ireland, is eight miles.
Time to international airport: Prestwick airport is an hour and half's drive away.
COMFORTABLE
There are nine individually decorated rooms, all of which are cosy, if a little chintzy and traditional. Our room, South, had a lovely view down to the sea. Even if the bed hadn't been marshmallow-soft, the sound of the waves lapping on the shore would have soothed us to sleep. The Churchill Suite has a sleigh bed and a 100-year-old enamel tub, while the Bay has a romantic half-tester bed.
Freebies: toiletries.
Keeping in touch: direct-dial phones and satellite TV.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Doubles from £210 including dinner and breakfast.
I'm not paying that: Chlenry Farmhouse, Castle Kennedy, Stranraer (01776 705 316; www.chlenryfarmhouse.com) has doubles from £60 including breakfast.
